Sommarkoftan 2024: Part 1
Hello and Welcome!
It’s time to cast on the Summer 2024 Cardigan. Download pattern here. We’ll begin with the pattern-knitted yoke because the sweater is worked from the top down. Before you begin knitting, knit a gauge swatch to make sure that your gauge correctly matches the gauge given in the pattern. You should also have measured yourself and chosen your size. Have you done that? Good – let’s get going!
CASTING ON
The stitches are cast on with the classic long-tail method, a technique you probably learned in a school or knitting class.
RIBBING
The ribbing is worked back and forth as noted in the pattern instructions. We’ll work in twisted rib. It means that, as the stitches face you, the knit stitches are twisted on the right side and the purl stitches are twisted on the wrong side. The knit stitches are twisted by working them through the back loop. The purl stitches are twisted when you purl them through the back loop. See how in the following videos:
CHAIN PANEL
When the ribbing is finished, you’ll make a decorative chain panel to frame the ribbing. The chain is formed by alternately slipping a stitch with yarn in front on the right side and slipping a stitch with yarn in back on the wrong side.
NOTE Read the instructions in the pattern and then link to the video below where Maja shows you how:
SHORT ROWS AND WRAPPED STITCHES
Following the ribbing and chain panel, you’ll work short rows with wrapped stitches so the yoke will fit well. When working short rows, you only work part of a row and turn at a given point. So there won’t be any holes at the turns, you wrap the stitch at the turn. Read the instructions in the pattern and watch the video below where Maja shows you how:
KNITTING IN THE ROUND
After the ribbing, chain panel, and short rows are complete, you’ll join the body into a circle so you can knit in the round as you continue. It is very common to join colorwork cardigans this way because you can produce a stockinette structure while knitting all the rounds. Two-color stranded knitting all on the right side is easier than purling any of it on the wrong side.
STEEK STITCHES
So that your sweater will be a cardigan and not a pullover, you’ll need to make an opening at the center front – and, to make that possible, we will make a “steek” between the two halves of the front. The steek stitches are only there so you will have a middle section to cut open without disturbing the main parts or patterns of the sweater. The Summer Cardigan 2024 has 5 steek stitches. (NOTE these stitches are not included in any stitch counts but are extras.)
Also note that you should NEVER make any increases or decreases in the 5 steek stitches!
On single-color rounds, work the steek stitches with the color in use and, on rounds with two colors, work the steek stitches alternating colors.
INCREASES AND INCEASE ROUNDS
Now it’s time to begin the yoke which will be shaped with increases evenly spaced around an increase round. The increases are made with an invisible method, with an increase in the stitch below, a “Right Lifted Increase = RLI.”
Click on this link to see how to make the increases - video. Don’t forget that the second stitch in the increase (that is, the original stitch on the needle is worked as an ordinary stitch) is part of the increase! You do not count it when working the stitches between increases.
Technique Tip: Work through the underlying stitch carefully! Do not pull on it or stretch it unnecessarily, but, gently ease the yarn through the stitch for an even and invisible increase.
NOTE If you need help with spacing your increases over the round, my tip is to check the knitting calculator: https://www.worldknits.com/knitting-calculators.
CASTING ON NEW STITCHES IN ON-GOING WORK
When I cast on new stitches in my on-going work, as, for example, steek stitches, I usually use the double-loop method. By wrapping a loop around twice, instead of once as is usual with a backwards loop cast-on, the double loop forms a firmer lower edge to steady the work and make it easier to manage.
I also think that it is easier to pick up and knit new stitches in the edge later on (which we will do for the underarm stitches).
Here’s how to make a double-loop cast-on - video
PATTERN PANEL
The pattern panel on the cardigan is worked with two-color stranded knitting.
PATTERN KNITTING
NOTE Always read the chart from right to left.
If you know that you knit more firmly in colorwork knitting than plain stockinette, I recommend that you go up a U. S. size / half metric size (or more, if necessary) for this section. I also recommend that you check to make sure that your gauge matches the pattern’s by knitting a gauge swatch before you begin the cardigan. Try letting the floats on the wrong side relax more when you knit so they won’t pull in the piece.
DIVIDING FOR BODY AND SLEEVES
Now your cardigan will begin looking like a “real” sweater, with a body and two sleeves. You will do this by dividing the yoke into two small and one large piece at the same time as casting on new side stitches at the underarms. These side stitches will become part of the body when you continue. The sleeve stitches are placed on holders (you can use strands of yarn) to “rest” until it is time to knit them.
NOTE Take the time to measure yourself before you divide the yoke to make sure the yoke is long enough. You can slip half of the stitches onto an extra circular so you can slip the sweater on over your head and try it on. Pinch in the underarms and make sure that the yoke fits well. In some cases, the yoke length needs to be adjusted which you can do by knitting the desired number of rounds before you divide for the body and sleeves.
Divide for body and sleeves in the following order: Knit the stitches of the left front, slip the left sleeve stitches to a holder, cast on new stitches for the underarm using the double-loop method, knit the stitches of the back, slip the right sleeve stitches to a holder, cast on new stitches for the underarm using the double-loop method, knit the right front stitches, knit the steek.
Count to make sure you have the given total number of stitches for the body = the left and right fronts, the back, as well as the new underarm stitches, so you’ll have the correct number of stitches for the pattern. Part 1 of the Summer Cardigan is now finished.
We wish you good luck for your cardigan knitting. If you have any questions, you are welcome to post them in our Facebook group “Sommarkoftan!”
Psst! Join our Facebook group Sommarkoftan 2024 – where we’ll share photos, tips, and inspiration.
Please show your work on Facebook and Instagram (@jarbogarn). Don‘t forget the hashtag #sommarkoftan2024!